Visit to DPRK

I spent an interesting five days in North Korea last week.  My colleagues at the British Embassy in Pyongyang arranged a varied programme for me, including meetings with North Korean officials, UN and aid agency representatives and Pyongyang-based diplomats from other countries.  In addition I was able to accompany our Ambassador, Karen Wolstenholme, on a couple of trips outside the capital.

This was my second visit, having spent three days in Pyongyang in November 2009.  But it’s not easy to make comparisons.  Pyongyang in November was cold, grey and pretty bleak.  Not surprisingly in August it’s green and less austere.  There’s been quite a bit of construction, notably the big Mansudae residential complex by the river.  I was told this will house 3000 families.  Superficially the buildings appear better than standard Pyongyang apartment blocks – which look grim.  It would be interesting to see inside them.

There’s more traffic on the streets, including many more imported vehicles but in absolute terms traffic is light.  Outside Pyongyang even main roads are incredibly quiet.

In meetings, there was a strong and consistent focus on the priority being given to economic development.  I was told that North Korea is interested in studying other countries’ experience.  My trip coincided with Jang Sung Taek’s talks with Chinese leaders in Beijing which seem to have concentrated on developing special economic zones along the Chinese border.

Trips to Myohyang and Pyeongseong, about 100 and 50 miles north of Pyongyang enabled us to see for ourselves some of the damage caused by the recent floods.  A lot of bridges had been brought down or were unsafe.  In other places, river banks had been washed away.  To our eyes crop damage seemed relatively limited but UN agencies should be able to offer a thorough assessment.

At Myohyang we viewed some of the gifts given to Korean leaders over the years.  The guide proudly showed us presents from Honecker, Ceausescu, Gierek, Emperor Bokassa, Mobutu, Gadhafi, Mubarak…

In Pyeongseong we visited an orphanage supported by the British Embassy.  Dedicated staff there care for about 120 4-5 year olds. 

It was interesting to see how Pyeongseong  residents are making use of small plots of land to grow vegetables for themselves.  They are even putting their roofs to good use, training squash to grow over them.

The North Korean Olympic Team returned to Pyongyang while I was there and people turned out in large numbers, some doubtless willingly, to greet them.  As in South Korea, people have taken a lot of pride in their athletes’ success in London.  A North Korean swimmer will be taking part for the first time in the Paralympic Games, which start next week.  I’m proud that our Embassy in Pyongyang enabled them to travel to a qualifying event in Berlin a few weeks ago.

Any trip to the DPRK is at once interesting but sad. Seoul, with its noise, colour and energy, may be just 120 miles away but it feels like another world. However, I was quite encouraged by the discussions on economic development. All of us living and working on the Korean Peninsula want to see peace and prosperity and I hope there will be more to see when I next visit.