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Back to Trafalgar - commemorations off the Cape

Published Friday 28th October 2005

Rose McMurray and Captain James Morse attended the formal Spanish service held at the Panteon Mausoleum in San Fernando [Picture: LA(Phot) Shaun Preston]

Genoves Park, in central Cadiz: the French wore period Spanish uniforms comprising Napoleonic hats, scarlet tunics, blue coats with white sashes and stockings [Picture: LA(Phot) Shaun Preston]

Genoves Park, in central Cadiz where old enemies marched alongside each other [Picture: LA(Phot) Shaun Preston]

The white marble monument in Genoves Park, purposefully incomplete to symbolise the two sections of the British fleet that broke through the enemy lines [Picture: LA(Phot) Shaun Preston]

HMS Chatham, twinned with the Spanish town of Cadiz, and Spanish Frigate Reina Sofia (astern) commemorated the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar just a few miles off the site where Nelson died [Picture: LA(Phot) Shaun Preston]

At just 17, the youngest member of the ship's company, apprentice Sean "Ringer" Bell joined his commanding officer, Captain James Morse in leading the tributes at sea, casting a wreath overboard to the sound of gunfire [Picture: LA(Phot) Shaun Preston]

TWO hundred years after old foes met at the Battle of Trafalgar, the Spanish, French and British hosted a series of ceremonial events around Europe to commemorate the Royal Navy's finest hour which reflected their shared heroism, courage, loss and sacrifice.

The Battle of Trafalgar took place on 21 October 1805 just a few miles off the Spanish Cape that gave its famous name. Tellingly, talk of "celebrations" was all but banned such was the level of diplomacy and unity. By sharp contrast to the triumphal spirit in Britain that marked the anniversary of Britain's supremacy as a naval power, the mood was muted.

The historic sea city of Cadiz remains deeply proud of its noble heritage where many streets bear the name of naval heroes and on Friday 21 October 2005, the overriding spirit was of a brotherhood among mariners. Representing the First Sea Lord, Admiral Sir Mark Stanhope said:

"It is an enormous privilege and honour to be invited by the Spanish authorities to help commemorate collective losses made by all three nations. When you go closer to the battle itself you can’t help but start to look at the horrors of battle and slaughter itself and collectively commemorate irrespective of who is the victor."

"In 200 years, lives have changed a great deal," added the admiral. "Seventy one per cent of earth is covered by sea and that’s a massive manoeuvre space to do business."

A formal Spanish service was held at the Panteon Mausoleum in San Fernando and adding a poignant note, many descendants of Spanish-Franco naval heroes were in attendance. Among the congregation were Rosemary McMurray and daughter Henrietta Stanniland from Portsmouth, both direct descendants of Lord Horatio Nelson:

"It's incredibly exciting to be asked and it's indicative of our culture in the UK that we want to retain the occasion said Henrietta. "But it is a mixed celebration because we lost one of our biggest war heroes."

Her bitter-sweet sentiment was echoed by sisters Judy Collingwood and Liz Hawkes, great, great, great nieces of Admiral Lord Cuthbert Collingwood.
The women belong to Sons and Daughters of Trafalgar who recently brought together descendants of brave men who served in the British fleet and now they were meeting their counterparts from France and Spain:

"We've already met some of the Spaniards and swapped e-mail addresses so you could say it's like gaining an extended family," said Judy.

The following day, the pair joined the British descendants in HMS Chatham to see the site of battle:

"I am sure it will raise the hairs on the back of the neck," said Liz.

After the Panteon service, the action moved to Genoves Park, in central Cadiz where old enemies marched alongside each other. The French wore period Spanish uniforms comprising Napoleonic hats, scarlet tunics, blue coats with white sashes and stockings.

A roll call of all the ships in the battle was read out and wreaths lain at a white marble monument, purposefully incomplete to symbolise the two sections of the British fleet that broke through the enemy lines. The silence was punctuated by a gun volley and the Spanish naval chief underlined the typical show of solidarity when he emphasised that the three nations were now firm allies.

Watching in the crowd, Patrick MacClure was "deeply moved" as he watched a young sailor struggle to control his composure:

"My eyes have filled with tears twice and it won't be the last time," he said.

Patrick's great, great, great grandfather Lieutenant John Pasco was Nelson's flag-lieutenant and hoisted the famous message, "England expects that every man will do his duty" replacing the words "England confides" with "England expects".

"I think it's extremely important," said Patrick. "It's a commemoration, not a celebration and that's appropriate when 5,000 people lost their lives in all three navies."

Amid the host's remarkable generosity in remembering Britain's finest naval victory, it would be churlish to deny some partisan sentiment, and many were keen to explain what it meant to them. One elderly gentleman, a descendant of one of the defeated admirals, said with a degree of understatement:

"Of course, we would have preferred to have won."

As ceremonies spread around the city, Frigate HMS Chatham sailed 12 miles out to sea to join the commemorations with a service of remembrance led by Chaplain Ned Kelly.

It was striking to note the contrast of modern technology as relatives held up digital cameras to record the ancient rituals taking place on board deck.

When Chatham slowly steamed past the Spanish aircraft carrier, Principe de Asturias, the entire ship's company stood to attention in salute as a Royal Marine bugler played the Last Post. Later a three-hour official period of mourning across the city was declared from 4pm lasting until sunset.

Across the world, people came and remembered a battle that changed the course of history.

This article was written by Lorraine McBride for Focus, the in-house magazine for people in defence.

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