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Ooh, I think I'll have half a fry up please!

Published Wednesday 6th July 2005

A 'Ministry of Food Ration Book' utilised to promote the 60th Anniversary of the End of the Second World War
A 'Ministry of Food Ration Book' utilised to promote the 60th Anniversary of the End of the Second World War Flight Sergeant Phil "Grundy" Jones, RAF Mobile Catering Support Unit (RAF Stafford)
Flight Sergeant Phil "Grundy" Jones, RAF Mobile Catering Support Unit (RAF Stafford) Rachel Jardine, from Bristol enjoys what would have been a very rare wartime treat, a spoonful of jam. Rachel who belongs to to 'The Garrison' a WWII re-enactment society, in particular the 93rd Searchlight Regiment, is taking part in the St James's Park Living History Museum.
Rachel Jardine, from Bristol enjoys what would have been a very rare wartime treat, a spoonful of jam. Rachel who belongs to to 'The Garrison' a WWII re-enactment society, in particular the 93rd Searchlight Regiment, is taking part in the St James's Park Living History Museum.

It's said that an army marches on its stomach, so how are the army of staff involved in the Living Museum exhibition being catered for?  And how does it compare to what was available 60 years ago?

TWO OUNCES of butter, one egg and four ounces of bacon.  That's what you could get each week when rationing was in force.  That's not even enough for one decent fry up.  Or you could treat yourself to a pack of dried egg a month, which surprisingly, despite its reputation, according to Tony Hall who is running the 1940s style field kitchen in the living museum in St James's park:

"For those who have tasted it its not that bad in fact, as long as you don't mind your scrambled eggs being green!"

Using the 1940 edition of the "War Office Manual of Military Cooking and Dietary", and a Soyer oven, which were introduced in the Crimean War and still in use until well into the 20th century, Tony and his helpers cook the kind of meals that soldiers would've received 60 years ago.

"Which meant mostly stews and working on a company level would be for a hundred men."

The introduction of the field kitchen meant that with two stoves per pack mule and enough food for four days the army transport requirement was cut by a fifth.  Before that everyone used to have to cook their own food on small fires.

"We put some meat in the stews, if we can get it," says Bob, lapsing into character.  "Breakfast in the field would probably be tinned bacon, tinned sausage, porridge, scrambled egg.  Dried of course."

But what was the food like?

"Tell him how good last night Shepard's pie was," Tony asked a passer by.

"Better than my wife makes!" was the frank endorsement.

Not everyone was convinced though, Chelsea pensioner Eric Borsase remembers getting, "a tin of mutton scotch style and hard tack, blummin 'orrible" and he looked longingly at the lunch pack that had been provided for him by the Royal Hospital.  Fresh sandwiches, fruit, crisps and two Yorkie bars with the slogan on the wrapper "Not for Civvies".

Fortunately for the 1000 plus people working at the various exhibitions Flight Sgt.  Phil "Grundy" Jones and his team of caterers from the Mobile Catering Support Unit based at RAF Stafford have a few more choices on the menu.

"We are providing 600 meals three times a day at the moment, but at the weekend that will go up to 1000 three times a day."

But this is a piece of cake for "Grundy" and his team, whose role is to deploy to support squadrons around the world supporting all three services.

"The team I've got supported the Normandy Landings commemoration event as well, and I have to say they all feel tremendously proud to be involved in this.

"Breakfast is full English, which is very popular, or cereals.  For lunch there are four choices including a baked potato bar with 5 choices of filling, fresh sandwiches and a roast.  There are four choices of cooked evening meal.  We can offer pasta, vegetarian options, all nutritionally balanced and healthy."

But it seems that the high carb, heavy duty meals are proving most popular.

"There's a lot of hard work being done, and the guys need to put some petrol back in the tank."

The veterans seem to love it and are quick to get involved in some good natured banter with the team, a typical reaction being, "When I was five years in captivity I never got this sort of thing."

"The choice really is impressive, you can even get stuff like Chicken Tikka tiddley do – dah, marvellous!" said Martin Snow, Captain of Invalids of the Royal Chelsea Hospital.

"The banter," says "Grundy", "hasn't changed, it's just the same as it's always been."

And the biggest headache hasn't changed either.  Logistics.

"We have to make sure we are self sustainable throughout the week, so we have to get the provisions right, and were sure we have."

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